Fashion statement

Emily, our climbing mate from Pennsylvania looking resplendent in her down outfit. Available at REI and other fine stores. 

Weather

Uh oh, I woke this morning and packed everything before I opened my tent and saw that it had snowed during the night. Not a big deal I thought, yea right. We are on the north side of Everest, the dry side, and this is April, the dry season, it is not supposed to be snowing. Well it is which makes finding the trail in loose rocks impossible and rolling your ankle more likely. The yaks that were to carry the equipment don't want to go in the snow over these rocks either. Hmmmm
We are trying to get a weather forecast to see how long this will last. If too long......


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What a difference a day makes

    They say the mountains are always full of surprises. Our surprise this morning was about two inches of fluffy, powdery snow -- with projections for more in days to come.  Fortunately our camp is in broad open basin with no glaciers above.  So no Avalanche risk.  Advance groups on North Col are returning to base early which suggests that weather is pretty severe up above. In the interim, all glad we have good cook and warm food -- and lots of books and music on our iPads.

Just a good buddy photo

Experience of a Lifetime

I will say that absolutely 100% this is the experience of a life time. The wind was buffeting the tent last night at about 70 mph as I was going to sleep at 9:30 in sub freezing temps and I smiled, almost laughed out loud, that I was at Mt Everest. In my way of thinking it is really funny. I will have to wait until tomorrow to see how I do higher up the mountain but today I am good. One day at a time. We hike up to interim camp tomorrow a gain of 1,800 ft over about 7 miles - we'll see. The next day to ABC (advance base camp) at 21,500 which will be really difficult. Then back here for a rest and repeat and go higher by a lot. Yikes!

Mt. Everest Base Camp

After what seems like forever, we have finally arrived at Base Camp. Elevation 17,000. This will be home for the next few weeks!

Day hike out of Old Tingrit

John Rigney

My Everest on the left and Cho Oyo on the right. Expand it a bit and you will see the inexplicable beauty!

Viewing Mt Everest for the first time

We both made it to the top for a jaw dropping view. I struggle much more than Edmond with the  altitude but hey tomorrow we will be at base camp and try again!

Tingrit -translation windiest place on earth - from our hike

John Rigney
Yep, it is windy every minute of every day. Weird.

Edmond hiking up!!

Rigney
Edmond hiking away overlooking the Tibet plateau.

The drive to Tingri

17,200 ft above Sea Level and in a bus. 

Second highest point in our drive today 14,900

17,200 in a bus geez

This pass is the second highest I have been in my life at 17,200. Alpamayo in Peru is almost 20,000. Still to think that we drove over this pass in a bus is mind blowing.

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Sent from my iPad

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Sent from my iPad

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride Lhasa to Shigatse

Sent from my iPad

Map

If this works it is a miracle but miracles happen. We are in Shigatse after an 8 hour bus ride. As beautiful as it was it was still 8 hours. Tomorrow we go to Tingri which is only 7 hours but it is also the end of the road as the following day we arrive at base camp. It seems like forever since we left but the logistics and the distances are immense. This is a big trip!

I apologize for the lack of photos but this program sucks. I have been more successful at Facebook but even that is difficult as the Chinese try and limit access to western social sites.
We arrived in Lhasa finally as we were diverted last night due to weather. We spent the night in Chengdu which is the home of the Pandas but of course we didn't get to see any. Edmond and I did walk out in the neighborhood of the hotel and ate. It was anything but a tourist area and no one spoke English and nothing was written in English. Luckily there were pictures of food on the menu and we pointed but we have no idea what we ate. The locals stared at us, even people on the sidewalk stopped and were surprised to see "us" in their hood. It was kind of fun.
I got up at 4 to catch the early flight here so a long day. Walking around the city at 12,000 feet was more difficult than I expected - yes I know I am here to climb a mountain but it still wasn't easy. The main part of this city is very new. It looks like it was built in the last 20 years and is very clean and modern. The old part of the city is more interesting and beautiful. It is spectacular here and I am excited for what is to come!

Load 'Em Up

EXPEDITION DUFFLES are packed and loaded on the truck, headed for the Nepal-Tibet border.  The old pickup was sagging and burning oil but we're all optimistic that we'll meet up in a few days in Tingri, Tibet.
Half our group is headed to climb Cho-Oyu, the world's sixth highest peak. Our team is headed for the Rongbuk Glacier and the north side of Everest. 

The Air We Breathe

The air here tastes bad and sticks in your nose. That can't be good for you!

Day 3: Kathmandu

Checking out fancy new hotel for return.

Before, hoping he understands my hand signals.

Cut and vigorous head massage.

DAY THREE and getting anxious to get out of town. I think we've now hit all the coffee shops with friendly staff and reliable WiFi.  Getting used to the rolling, unexpected blackouts.  Learning how to shower with a headlamp.  All part of the fun.  But worrisome news from Lhasa.  Friends in advance groups unable to land because of dust storms.  Hopefully the winds will settle for our travel day, Friday.  Big event today: haircut.  No reason to carry an extra five founds of sweat-drenched hair up the mountain.  Quite a challenge communicating my intentions to Nepali barber.  Like John said tonight at dinner: only difference between a good hair cut and a bad one is two weeks.  Tomorrow our gear kits go off by truck and overland to meet us (hopefully) in Tingry, Tibet. At least we're partially underway.

One more day in Khatmandu which sucks but it is a big group and the logistics are immense. I have my Tibet climbing visa and all of my gear, bags are packed and ready to ship. I don't know what to do with all of the free time as I just want to go, but I am trying to chill which of course is difficult. The hotel we are at is minimal which is a compliment but the climbing world is on a budget. The city is busy and crowded and the air is thick with diesel exhaust and dust. I have been wearing a filter over my nose and mouth which is a bad fashion choice but better for the lungs. The jet lag is better but not gone.
This blog site sucks incidentally. I still can't load a photo but Bill will figure it out, won't you?

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http://m.summittrek.com/everest-training

Views From Our First Day in Kathmandu

Honestly, Do These Make My Ass Look Big

Four Countries, Three Transfers: Our Stuff Made It

I have a 4 hour layover in Seoul South Korea. I left here 47 years ago this month after 14 months of Army service. From the plane I could see that Seoul has changed!  Edmost@gmail.com

Mount Fuji on my Departure from Tokyo

I got into Kharmandu last evening after a brutally long 3 flights. I am here for two days to get some gear and organize then fly to Lhasa and start driving toward the mountain which we will spend  3 days... Then...

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Bags checked, through security, in the lounge, now I am allowing myself to be really excited!  Not that I wasn't before but now....
This trip would not be possible without:
Edmond making a unilateral decision to go and peer pressure getting the best of me! Thank you for organizing!
All of the people in my office who will make sure my clients and work are handled seamlessly!
The wonderful support from my family, friends and clients.
Let's go to Tibet!!!!

JOHN: Small Sacraments Before the Big Trip

LEAVING FOR THE AIRPORT soon but the last day was the perfect SoCal day.

Chaos Before Compaction

One for the Road

Smoothie on the deck overlooking ocean -- which I'll be crossing tonight!  Self Realization Fellowship service and then a motorcycle ride out to Malibu for breakfast and a ride home on the beautiful Mulholland Highway and Old Topanga Road. Now a shower and then to the airport.  Nice way to start my vacation. (I use that term in a hopeful way.)

THE ROUTE

WE'LL BE ARRIVING in Kathmandu, Nepal on April 19/20 from LAX after layovers in Shanghai and Seoul. 
After two days for shopping, sightseeing, and obtaining our China visas, we're off to Lhasa,11,995 feet, for one (guaranteed sleepless) night. 
Then by car for the next three days across the high Tibetan plateau, with side hikes to build some red blood cells, to Rongbuk and up to Everest/Tibet basecamp where the real climbing begins.

My Climbing Partner's Training Regimen

MY PARTNER in many adventures, John, approaches big endeavors with his own unique training style.  He likes to attack Mt. Whitney, round trip, in single one-day bursts, which he has accomplished tens of times.  Going from sea level to 14,500 feet, he prepares by a night of acclimatization at Lone Pine, 4000 feet. 
His annual training regimen for the L.A. Marathon is equally compact -- a couple of hours on the treadmill, a lunch break dash to the beach, some Pilates.  
I hope his training program for this very serious climb is somewhat more rigorous, seeing that I'm on the other end of the rope and we're leaving in a week.