Monday, May 16, 2016

It didn't work


At one point I tried Edmond's electric razor.  It didn't work. I don't really recognize myself in this photo, but it is me ugh!

My home for 8 days at 21,300.


There is no fast way to acclimate. We tried to keep climbing too soon and ran out of gas fast - which is a polite way of saying we ran out of everything that our bodies used to have. The ability to breath, muscles that work when you command them and an attitude of can do. We returned to rest and acclimate for another couples of days before continuing.

Room with a view


Just another beautiful view, every direction, every day it was just awesome.

North col camp


to the extent that other camps didn't look all warm and cozy The North Col camp at just above 7,000 meters (23,000+ft) wins the "seriously, I am sleeping here?" Award. Looks like a place where Santa Clause would be working away making toys.  I will say the view from up there was dramatic.

Russian base camp


at base camp the Russian's won camp of the year contest. They travel in style - seriously.  Pool table, ping pong which was actually really fun to play on, I am sure it was the worlds highest at 17,000 ft. Big screen TV, disco sound system, a generator, heater. 7 Summits Club I don't know how much they charged but that included a party every night.

Going up.... And up.... And up


It probably looks easy and warm, but crawling over lose shale for hour after hour after hour in an ever upward direction isn't really that easy.  Edmond just makes it look that way!

Interim base camp



Interim base camp (IBC) about 1/2 way up. 6 or 7 miles up.
It looked much more inviting when you were exhausted.




The after shot - just before leaving!

It figures that the most beautiful day is the morning we left!  But we were ready or at least I was. 

Sunday, May 15, 2016

LHASA!  After two days of crossing Tibet from Everest Base Camp, we have finally reached the sacred city.   With any luck the winds will be calm tomorrow and we will be on our way back to Kathmandu.  (Combination of high altitude, swirling winds, and surrounding mountains sometimes make flight operations from airport here tricky.  A prayer please for calm weather.).  If our noon flight gets out, then one day in Kathmandu and we are HOMEWARD BOUND! To loved ones, friends, and familiar surroundings.   Trip summary so far: unbelievable sights and heights, but amazingly demanding

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Climbing Team Reaches North Col on Everest

On Monday, May 9th, the climbing team reached North Col and spent the night! Summit Climb posted on their website: "Back at ABC after sleeping at the North Col. We had a very snowy ascent but woke this morning to clear Himalayan views." John sent a sat phone text at 2:13 am Wednesday, May 11th (Wednesday evening on the Tibet side of Everest): "...heading down tomorrow." Short text, but great to know they're doing well! Photo courtesy of Chad Peele's FB page & Summit Climb

Monday, May 9, 2016

Ascending the North Col of Everest

On Saturday, May 7th the group attempted to climb the North Col on Mount Everest. The North Col (23,030 feet above sea level) is a narrow ridge of glacier ice that was first climbed in 1921 by Edward Wheeler when exploring ways to ascend to the summit of Mount Everest. Climbers have to go up the ridge, formed by the East Rongbuk Glacier, to get from Advanced Base Camp to Camp 2 (24,750 feet above sea level) on their way to the summit of Everest. The climbers are clipped into fixed lines and the steepest sections have 60-80% inclines! Judging from the text received from John's satellite phone late Saturday night (Sunday morning on Mount Everest) the group didn't quite make it all the way... Sunday is a rest day back at Advanced Base Camp before they try again.

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

"All Good"

Hi all, this is John's assistant Bill... this morning John texted from his satellite phone that they're at ABC Camp (Advanced Base Camp) 21,000 feet up on the north/Tibet side of Mount Everest and "...all good". Hopefully we'll get an update and more photos soon! 




Sunday, May 1, 2016

Moving On Up!

The weather broke sooner than forecast and it is beautiful today, so we've made the decision to hike 7 miles and up 1,800 feet in elevation to Interim Base Camp at Everest...

Saturday, April 30, 2016

Fashion statement

Emily, our climbing mate from Pennsylvania looking resplendent in her down outfit. Available at REI and other fine stores. 

Weather

Uh oh, I woke this morning and packed everything before I opened my tent and saw that it had snowed during the night. Not a big deal I thought, yea right. We are on the north side of Everest, the dry side, and this is April, the dry season, it is not supposed to be snowing. Well it is which makes finding the trail in loose rocks impossible and rolling your ankle more likely. The yaks that were to carry the equipment don't want to go in the snow over these rocks either. Hmmmm
We are trying to get a weather forecast to see how long this will last. If too long......


Sent from my iPad

What a difference a day makes

    They say the mountains are always full of surprises. Our surprise this morning was about two inches of fluffy, powdery snow -- with projections for more in days to come.  Fortunately our camp is in broad open basin with no glaciers above.  So no Avalanche risk.  Advance groups on North Col are returning to base early which suggests that weather is pretty severe up above. In the interim, all glad we have good cook and warm food -- and lots of books and music on our iPads.

Just a good buddy photo

Friday, April 29, 2016

Experience of a Lifetime

I will say that absolutely 100% this is the experience of a life time. The wind was buffeting the tent last night at about 70 mph as I was going to sleep at 9:30 in sub freezing temps and I smiled, almost laughed out loud, that I was at Mt Everest. In my way of thinking it is really funny. I will have to wait until tomorrow to see how I do higher up the mountain but today I am good. One day at a time. We hike up to interim camp tomorrow a gain of 1,800 ft over about 7 miles - we'll see. The next day to ABC (advance base camp) at 21,500 which will be really difficult. Then back here for a rest and repeat and go higher by a lot. Yikes!


Thursday, April 28, 2016

Mt. Everest Base Camp


After what seems like forever, we have finally arrived at Base Camp. Elevation 17,000. This will be home for the next few weeks!

Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Day hike out of Old Tingrit

John Rigney

My Everest on the left and Cho Oyo on the right. Expand it a bit and you will see the inexplicable beauty!

Viewing Mt Everest for the first time


We both made it to the top for a jaw dropping view. I struggle much more than Edmond with the  altitude but hey tomorrow we will be at base camp and try again!

Tingrit -translation windiest place on earth - from our hike

John Rigney
Yep, it is windy every minute of every day. Weird.

Edmond hiking up!!

Rigney
Edmond hiking away overlooking the Tibet plateau.

Monday, April 25, 2016

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Sent from my iPad

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Sent from my iPad

Photos from our 8 hour bus ride Lhasa to Shigatse

Sent from my iPad

Map

If this works it is a miracle but miracles happen. We are in Shigatse after an 8 hour bus ride. As beautiful as it was it was still 8 hours. Tomorrow we go to Tingri which is only 7 hours but it is also the end of the road as the following day we arrive at base camp. It seems like forever since we left but the logistics and the distances are immense. This is a big trip!

Sunday, April 24, 2016

I apologize for the lack of photos but this program sucks. I have been more successful at Facebook but even that is difficult as the Chinese try and limit access to western social sites.
We arrived in Lhasa finally as we were diverted last night due to weather. We spent the night in Chengdu which is the home of the Pandas but of course we didn't get to see any. Edmond and I did walk out in the neighborhood of the hotel and ate. It was anything but a tourist area and no one spoke English and nothing was written in English. Luckily there were pictures of food on the menu and we pointed but we have no idea what we ate. The locals stared at us, even people on the sidewalk stopped and were surprised to see "us" in their hood. It was kind of fun.
I got up at 4 to catch the early flight here so a long day. Walking around the city at 12,000 feet was more difficult than I expected - yes I know I am here to climb a mountain but it still wasn't easy. The main part of this city is very new. It looks like it was built in the last 20 years and is very clean and modern. The old part of the city is more interesting and beautiful. It is spectacular here and I am excited for what is to come!

Friday, April 22, 2016

Load 'Em Up



EXPEDITION DUFFLES are packed and loaded on the truck, headed for the Nepal-Tibet border.  The old pickup was sagging and burning oil but we're all optimistic that we'll meet up in a few days in Tingri, Tibet.
Half our group is headed to climb Cho-Oyu, the world's sixth highest peak. Our team is headed for the Rongbuk Glacier and the north side of Everest. 


Thursday, April 21, 2016

The Air We Breathe


The air here tastes bad and sticks in your nose. That can't be good for you!

Day 3: Kathmandu


Checking out fancy new hotel for return.
Before, hoping he understands my hand signals.
Cut and vigorous head massage.
DAY THREE and getting anxious to get out of town. I think we've now hit all the coffee shops with friendly staff and reliable WiFi.  Getting used to the rolling, unexpected blackouts.  Learning how to shower with a headlamp.  All part of the fun.  But worrisome news from Lhasa.  Friends in advance groups unable to land because of dust storms.  Hopefully the winds will settle for our travel day, Friday.  Big event today: haircut.  No reason to carry an extra five founds of sweat-drenched hair up the mountain.  Quite a challenge communicating my intentions to Nepali barber.  Like John said tonight at dinner: only difference between a good hair cut and a bad one is two weeks.  Tomorrow our gear kits go off by truck and overland to meet us (hopefully) in Tingry, Tibet. At least we're partially underway.
One more day in Khatmandu which sucks but it is a big group and the logistics are immense. I have my Tibet climbing visa and all of my gear, bags are packed and ready to ship. I don't know what to do with all of the free time as I just want to go, but I am trying to chill which of course is difficult. The hotel we are at is minimal which is a compliment but the climbing world is on a budget. The city is busy and crowded and the air is thick with diesel exhaust and dust. I have been wearing a filter over my nose and mouth which is a bad fashion choice but better for the lungs. The jet lag is better but not gone.
This blog site sucks incidentally. I still can't load a photo but Bill will figure it out, won't you?

Monday, April 18, 2016

I have a 4 hour layover in Seoul South Korea. I left here 47 years ago this month after 14 months of Army service. From the plane I could see that Seoul has changed!  Edmost@gmail.com

Mount Fuji on my Departure from Tokyo

I got into Kharmandu last evening after a brutally long 3 flights. I am here for two days to get some gear and organize then fly to Lhasa and start driving toward the mountain which we will spend  3 days... Then...

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Sunday, April 17, 2016

Bags checked, through security, in the lounge, now I am allowing myself to be really excited!  Not that I wasn't before but now....
This trip would not be possible without:
Edmond making a unilateral decision to go and peer pressure getting the best of me! Thank you for organizing!
All of the people in my office who will make sure my clients and work are handled seamlessly!
The wonderful support from my family, friends and clients.
Let's go to Tibet!!!!


JOHN: Small Sacraments Before the Big Trip


LEAVING FOR THE AIRPORT soon but the last day was the perfect SoCal day.
Chaos Before Compaction
One for the Road
Smoothie on the deck overlooking ocean -- which I'll be crossing tonight!  Self Realization Fellowship service and then a motorcycle ride out to Malibu for breakfast and a ride home on the beautiful Mulholland Highway and Old Topanga Road. Now a shower and then to the airport.  Nice way to start my vacation. (I use that term in a hopeful way.)





Monday, April 11, 2016

THE ROUTE
WE'LL BE ARRIVING in Kathmandu, Nepal on April 19/20 from LAX after layovers in Shanghai and Seoul
After two days for shopping, sightseeing, and obtaining our China visas, we're off to Lhasa,11,995 feet, for one (guaranteed sleepless) night. 
Then by car for the next three days across the high Tibetan plateau, with side hikes to build some red blood cells, to Rongbuk and up to Everest/Tibet basecamp where the real climbing begins.

Sunday, April 10, 2016

My Climbing Partner's Training Regimen


MY PARTNER in many adventures, John, approaches big endeavors with his own unique training style.  He likes to attack Mt. Whitney, round trip, in single one-day bursts, which he has accomplished tens of times.  Going from sea level to 14,500 feet, he prepares by a night of acclimatization at Lone Pine, 4000 feet. 
His annual training regimen for the L.A. Marathon is equally compact -- a couple of hours on the treadmill, a lunch break dash to the beach, some Pilates.  
I hope his training program for this very serious climb is somewhat more rigorous, seeing that I'm on the other end of the rope and we're leaving in a week.