On April 17, John Rigney and Edmond Stevens depart on their most lofty adventure to date: to travel to Nepal and Tibet and to climb the North Col of Sagarmatha/Chomolungma...or as better known in the western world, Mount Everest. Watch for our regular post, pics, videos, and commentary as we attempt to follow the route of the early Everest pioneers up the Rongbuk glacier to the North Shoulder of the world's highest peak.
Monday, May 16, 2016
It didn't work
At one point I tried Edmond's electric razor. It didn't work. I don't really recognize myself in this photo, but it is me ugh!
My home for 8 days at 21,300.
There is no fast way to acclimate. We tried to keep climbing too soon and ran out of gas fast - which is a polite way of saying we ran out of everything that our bodies used to have. The ability to breath, muscles that work when you command them and an attitude of can do. We returned to rest and acclimate for another couples of days before continuing.
North col camp
to the extent that other camps didn't look all warm and cozy The North Col camp at just above 7,000 meters (23,000+ft) wins the "seriously, I am sleeping here?" Award. Looks like a place where Santa Clause would be working away making toys. I will say the view from up there was dramatic.
Russian base camp
at base camp the Russian's won camp of the year contest. They travel in style - seriously. Pool table, ping pong which was actually really fun to play on, I am sure it was the worlds highest at 17,000 ft. Big screen TV, disco sound system, a generator, heater. 7 Summits Club I don't know how much they charged but that included a party every night.
Going up.... And up.... And up
It probably looks easy and warm, but crawling over lose shale for hour after hour after hour in an ever upward direction isn't really that easy. Edmond just makes it look that way!
Interim base camp
Interim base camp (IBC) about 1/2 way up. 6 or 7 miles up.
It looked much more inviting when you were exhausted.
Sunday, May 15, 2016
LHASA! After two days of crossing Tibet from Everest Base Camp, we have finally reached the sacred city. With any luck the winds will be calm tomorrow and we will be on our way back to Kathmandu. (Combination of high altitude, swirling winds, and surrounding mountains sometimes make flight operations from airport here tricky. A prayer please for calm weather.). If our noon flight gets out, then one day in Kathmandu and we are HOMEWARD BOUND! To loved ones, friends, and familiar surroundings. Trip summary so far: unbelievable sights and heights, but amazingly demanding
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
Climbing Team Reaches North Col on Everest
On Monday, May 9th, the climbing team reached North Col and spent the night! Summit Climb posted on their website: "Back at ABC after sleeping at the North Col. We had a very snowy ascent but woke this morning to clear Himalayan views."
John sent a sat phone text at 2:13 am Wednesday, May 11th (Wednesday evening on the Tibet side of Everest): "...heading down tomorrow." Short text, but great to know they're doing well! Photo courtesy of Chad Peele's FB page & Summit Climb
Monday, May 9, 2016
Ascending the North Col of Everest
On Saturday, May 7th the group attempted to climb the North Col on Mount Everest. The North Col (23,030 feet above sea level) is a narrow ridge of glacier ice that was first climbed in 1921 by Edward Wheeler when exploring ways to ascend to the summit of Mount Everest. Climbers have to go up the ridge, formed by the East Rongbuk Glacier, to get from Advanced Base Camp to Camp 2 (24,750 feet above sea level) on their way to the summit of Everest. The climbers are clipped into fixed lines and the steepest sections have 60-80% inclines!
Judging from the text received from John's satellite phone late Saturday night (Sunday morning on Mount Everest) the group didn't quite make it all the way... Sunday is a rest day back at Advanced Base Camp before they try again.
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
"All Good"
Sunday, May 1, 2016
Moving On Up!
The weather broke sooner than forecast and it is beautiful today, so we've made the decision to hike 7 miles and up 1,800 feet in elevation to Interim Base Camp at Everest...
Saturday, April 30, 2016
Weather
Uh oh, I woke this morning and packed everything before I opened my tent and saw that it had snowed during the night. Not a big deal I thought, yea right. We are on the north side of Everest, the dry side, and this is April, the dry season, it is not supposed to be snowing. Well it is which makes finding the trail in loose rocks impossible and rolling your ankle more likely. The yaks that were to carry the equipment don't want to go in the snow over these rocks either. Hmmmm
We are trying to get a weather forecast to see how long this will last. If too long......
Sent from my iPad
We are trying to get a weather forecast to see how long this will last. If too long......
Sent from my iPad
What a difference a day makes
They say the mountains are always full of surprises. Our surprise this morning was about two inches of fluffy, powdery snow -- with projections for more in days to come. Fortunately our camp is in broad open basin with no glaciers above. So no Avalanche risk. Advance groups on North Col are returning to base early which suggests that weather is pretty severe up above. In the interim, all glad we have good cook and warm food -- and lots of books and music on our iPads.
Friday, April 29, 2016
Experience of a Lifetime
I will say that absolutely 100% this is the experience of a life time. The wind was buffeting the tent last night at about 70 mph as I was going to sleep at 9:30 in sub freezing temps and I smiled, almost laughed out loud, that I was at Mt Everest. In my way of thinking it is really funny. I will have to wait until tomorrow to see how I do higher up the mountain but today I am good. One day at a time. We hike up to interim camp tomorrow a gain of 1,800 ft over about 7 miles - we'll see. The next day to ABC (advance base camp) at 21,500 which will be really difficult. Then back here for a rest and repeat and go higher by a lot. Yikes!
Thursday, April 28, 2016
Mt. Everest Base Camp
After what seems like forever, we have finally arrived at Base Camp. Elevation 17,000. This will be home for the next few weeks!
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Day hike out of Old Tingrit
John Rigney
My Everest on the left and Cho Oyo on the right. Expand it a bit and you will see the inexplicable beauty!
My Everest on the left and Cho Oyo on the right. Expand it a bit and you will see the inexplicable beauty!
Viewing Mt Everest for the first time
We both made it to the top for a jaw dropping view. I struggle much more than Edmond with the altitude but hey tomorrow we will be at base camp and try again!
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
17,200 in a bus geez
This pass is the second highest I have been in my life at 17,200. Alpamayo in Peru is almost 20,000. Still to think that we drove over this pass in a bus is mind blowing.
Monday, April 25, 2016
Map
If this works it is a miracle but miracles happen. We are in Shigatse after an 8 hour bus ride. As beautiful as it was it was still 8 hours. Tomorrow we go to Tingri which is only 7 hours but it is also the end of the road as the following day we arrive at base camp. It seems like forever since we left but the logistics and the distances are immense. This is a big trip!
Sunday, April 24, 2016
I apologize for the lack of photos but this program sucks. I have been more successful at Facebook but even that is difficult as the Chinese try and limit access to western social sites.
We arrived in Lhasa finally as we were diverted last night due to weather. We spent the night in Chengdu which is the home of the Pandas but of course we didn't get to see any. Edmond and I did walk out in the neighborhood of the hotel and ate. It was anything but a tourist area and no one spoke English and nothing was written in English. Luckily there were pictures of food on the menu and we pointed but we have no idea what we ate. The locals stared at us, even people on the sidewalk stopped and were surprised to see "us" in their hood. It was kind of fun.
I got up at 4 to catch the early flight here so a long day. Walking around the city at 12,000 feet was more difficult than I expected - yes I know I am here to climb a mountain but it still wasn't easy. The main part of this city is very new. It looks like it was built in the last 20 years and is very clean and modern. The old part of the city is more interesting and beautiful. It is spectacular here and I am excited for what is to come!
We arrived in Lhasa finally as we were diverted last night due to weather. We spent the night in Chengdu which is the home of the Pandas but of course we didn't get to see any. Edmond and I did walk out in the neighborhood of the hotel and ate. It was anything but a tourist area and no one spoke English and nothing was written in English. Luckily there were pictures of food on the menu and we pointed but we have no idea what we ate. The locals stared at us, even people on the sidewalk stopped and were surprised to see "us" in their hood. It was kind of fun.
I got up at 4 to catch the early flight here so a long day. Walking around the city at 12,000 feet was more difficult than I expected - yes I know I am here to climb a mountain but it still wasn't easy. The main part of this city is very new. It looks like it was built in the last 20 years and is very clean and modern. The old part of the city is more interesting and beautiful. It is spectacular here and I am excited for what is to come!
Friday, April 22, 2016
Load 'Em Up
EXPEDITION DUFFLES are packed and loaded on the truck, headed for the Nepal-Tibet border. The old pickup was sagging and burning oil but we're all optimistic that we'll meet up in a few days in Tingri, Tibet.
Half our group is headed to climb Cho-Oyu, the world's sixth highest peak. Our team is headed for the Rongbuk Glacier and the north side of Everest.
Thursday, April 21, 2016
Day 3: Kathmandu
Checking out fancy new hotel for return. |
Before, hoping he understands my hand signals. |
Cut and vigorous head massage. |
One more day in Khatmandu which sucks but it is a big group and the logistics are immense. I have my Tibet climbing visa and all of my gear, bags are packed and ready to ship. I don't know what to do with all of the free time as I just want to go, but I am trying to chill which of course is difficult. The hotel we are at is minimal which is a compliment but the climbing world is on a budget. The city is busy and crowded and the air is thick with diesel exhaust and dust. I have been wearing a filter over my nose and mouth which is a bad fashion choice but better for the lungs. The jet lag is better but not gone.
This blog site sucks incidentally. I still can't load a photo but Bill will figure it out, won't you?
This blog site sucks incidentally. I still can't load a photo but Bill will figure it out, won't you?
Wednesday, April 20, 2016
Monday, April 18, 2016
Sunday, April 17, 2016
Bags checked, through security, in the lounge, now I am allowing myself to be really excited! Not that I wasn't before but now....
This trip would not be possible without:
Edmond making a unilateral decision to go and peer pressure getting the best of me! Thank you for organizing!
All of the people in my office who will make sure my clients and work are handled seamlessly!
The wonderful support from my family, friends and clients.
Let's go to Tibet!!!!
This trip would not be possible without:
Edmond making a unilateral decision to go and peer pressure getting the best of me! Thank you for organizing!
All of the people in my office who will make sure my clients and work are handled seamlessly!
The wonderful support from my family, friends and clients.
Let's go to Tibet!!!!
JOHN: Small Sacraments Before the Big Trip
Chaos Before Compaction |
One for the Road |
Monday, April 11, 2016
THE ROUTE |
After two days for shopping, sightseeing, and obtaining our China visas, we're off to Lhasa,11,995 feet, for one (guaranteed sleepless) night.
Then by car for the next three days across the high Tibetan plateau, with side hikes to build some red blood cells, to Rongbuk and up to Everest/Tibet basecamp where the real climbing begins.
Sunday, April 10, 2016
My Climbing Partner's Training Regimen
MY PARTNER in many adventures, John, approaches big endeavors with his own unique training style. He likes to attack Mt. Whitney, round trip, in single one-day bursts, which he has accomplished tens of times. Going from sea level to 14,500 feet, he prepares by a night of acclimatization at Lone Pine, 4000 feet.
His annual training regimen for the L.A. Marathon is equally compact -- a couple of hours on the treadmill, a lunch break dash to the beach, some Pilates.
I hope his training program for this very serious climb is somewhat more rigorous, seeing that I'm on the other end of the rope and we're leaving in a week.
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